Polyunsaturated Fats, Oxidation, and Sun Damage
Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA's) are fatty acids that have a higher volume of double carbon bonds and lack hydrogen atoms. This instability causes the compounds to bind with oxygen when exposed to light and heat. This process is known as oxidation. Oxidation causes free radicals to become prevalent in the body, meaning cells will begin seeking their missing electron to stabilize themselves.
The level of saturation within a fatty acid can vary from saturated, to monounsaturated, to polyunsaturated. Saturated fats have an appropriate ratio of hydrogen atoms and therefore inhibit free radical production and proliferation. Monounsaturated fats only have one unsaturated double carbon bond, while polyunsaturated fats contain many.
Saturated fats have an appropriate ratio of hydrogen atoms and therefore inhibit free radical production and proliferation. To fight oxidative stress on the body, we can lower our intake of polyunsaturated acids through ingestion and topical use. Some examples of commonly used polyunsaturated acids include:
-Canola Oil
-Peanut Oil
-Sesame Oil
-Flax seed Oil
-Grapeseed Oil
-Sunflower Seed Oil
-Chia Seed oil
-Almond Oil
-Rosehip Oil
-Sea Buckthorn Oil
Oxidation causes skin abnormalities and accelerated aging in the skin cells. However, topical administration of stable fats reduces the damage from free radicals:
"Natural antioxidants are promising in the prevention of skin cancer, as many have shown their anticarcinogenic and antimutagenic effects and low toxicity. Therefore, the use of antioxidants, orally or topically, may help endogenous systems of skin protection, and contribute to preventing problems in the long term." (Silva, Silas Arandas Monteiro E et al. 2017)
The fats we include in our products have a low percentage of polyunsaturated acids, if any:
Tallow: <%1 PUFA
Jojoba oil: 1% PUFA
Castor Oil: 4% PUFA
Coconut Oil: 2% PUFA
Fractionated coconut oil: 0% PUFA
Shea butter: 5.3% PUFA
We want to make sure we are lessening the burden wherever we can. The fatty acid profile of certain compounds can affect the way our skin metabolizes product. Like many aspects of health, the conversation surrounding polyunsaturated fats should be in equilibrium with what is appropriate for our biology, rather than a stringent, obsessive, all-or-nothing mentality. The concepts spoken about in the “wellness” space are meant to be a diving board toward new information and growth - be curious!
Sources:
Mukherjee PK, Maity N, Nema NK, Sarkar BK. Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging. Phytomedicine. 2011 Dec 15;19(1):64-73. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22115797/
Niki E. Lipid oxidation in the skin. Free Radic Res. 2015;49(7):82734.https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25312699/
Namiki M.Antioxidants/antimutagens in food. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 1990 https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2257080/
Silva, S., Michniak-Kohn, B., & Leonardi, G. R. (2017). An overview about oxidation in clinical practice of skin aging. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5514578/